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November 1, 2018

‘The Membership of Wine’ on JancisRobinson.com

01 November 2018 | by Andrea Frost

Of all the paradoxes that exist in wine, one in particular continues to tickle. In a world becoming more casual by the app, with a population apparently deserting the good and the great for the casual and the deconstructed, the ritual of wine connoisseurship is becoming more popular, instead of fading into the boneyard of high-culture customs alongside marble carvings and fresco paintings. WSET schools are spreading like IKEAs, prospective Masters of Wine are signing up in droves, and the culture of wine tastings and dinners (such as the – preparations for – one in Vintners’ Hall illustrated) is booming. Why?

Before we go on, interpret my question not as disapproval of a trend to a life of wine, but of delighted and supportive surprise. I’m all for a life dedicated to wine and see every good reason for such a pursuit …

This is an excerpt from my latest column at JancisRobinson.com. To continue reading, please click here.